Keep Your Clear Of The Next Pet Food Recall - Here Are The 'Red Flags' Of Pet Food

By Susan Thixton

Last year turned out to be the worst in history for pet food recalls. While there is no way to be 100% certain that a pet food is not tainted or will be recalled, there are some red flags to look for when selecting your dog's or cat's food. Avoiding these common pet food ingredients can greatly improve your odds in purchasing a healthy, safe pet food.

Judging the safety or the nutritional value of a pet food starts by ignoring the advertising, the price of the pet food, and ignoring the front of the bag. The real signs to the safety of a dog food or cat food lie on the back or side of the bag or can in the 'Ingredient Listing'. Regardless of what marketing terms ('choice', 'premium', and so on) are on the front of the bag or can of pet food, a pet owner cannot determine the quality or how safe the food is unless they look at the ingredients. With dry foods there can be 90 different ingredients (or more), with canned foods there can be 50 or more different ingredients. But don't panic...you don't have to understand hundreds of different pet food ingredients! You just need to be aware of a few key ingredients...pet food ingredients that you do NOT want to see in a dog food or cat food (or treats).

'Wheat Gluten', 'Corn Gluten', or 'Rice Gluten'. These three ingredients were the bad boy pet food ingredients of 2007. Tainted glutens were found to be the cause of thousands of dogs and cats becoming ill and dying. It is not that glutens themselves are toxic to pets - these ingredients have been used in pet foods for years. The problem was the source or manufacturer of the glutens - imported from countries with far less quality standards than in the US. (The majority of glutens used in the US pet foods are from imported sources.) These imported glutens contained added chemicals that caused crystals to form in the kidneys of dogs and cats.

Not only is it important to avoid dog foods and cat foods (and dog and cat treats) that contain glutens because of the possibility of dangerous added chemicals, it is important because they add no real quality nutrition to the food. Glutens are used as a thickener AND as a source of protein in pet food. Adult maintenance dog foods must provide a minimum of 18% protein, adult maintenance cat foods must provide a minimum of 26% protein. If the meat source of the pet food does not provide enough protein, glutens are often added to boost the protein level of the pet food. The best nutrition for your pet comes from a meat protein pet food not from a gluten protein. Avoid dog foods and cat foods (and treats) that contain 'corn gluten', 'wheat gluten', or 'soy gluten'.

'By Products'. By-products have never been the cause of a pet food recall, but they are definitely ingredients you want to avoid feeding your pet. To give you an understanding of by-products, I'd like to compare this pet food ingredient to pies - you know, the dessert! How many different types of pies you can think of? There are apple pies, cherry pies, chocolate pies, meringue pies, meat pies, mud pies, pie in math, cow pies (yuck!) - I think you get my point. Now imagine if you purchased yourself a prepared ravioli dinner at the grocery and you looked at the ingredients and you see 'pie' listed as the first ingredient in your dinner. Hmmm, pie in ravioli - what kind of pie? You wouldn't know if it was apple pie or mud pie or even cow pie. All you would know is that your dinner contained 'pie'. Considering 'pie' could be anything from apple pie to cow pie - my guess is that you wouldn't be having ravioli for dinner. Same thing with by-products in pet food.

AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials - the organization responsible for all animal feed manufacturing rules and regulations) defines by-products as "meat by-products is the non-rendered, clean parts, other than meat, derived from slaughtered mammals. It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. It does not include hair, horns, teeth, and hoofs. It shall be suitable for use in animal food. If it bears name descriptive of its kind, it must correspond thereto."

So, with respect to pet food - a by-product is a catch-all ingredient name. All left over meat materials from the human food industry are clumped into one ingredient name - by-product. There is NO certainty of what you are feeding - one batch of pet food might be more intestine by-products while the next batch of pet food might be more liver or bone by-products. There is NO way of knowing what is actually contained in the pet food ingredient by-product (the pet food manufacturers themselves couldn't tell you exactly). Avoid dog foods and cat foods (and treats) that contain By-products of any kind...Chicken By-Products, Beef By-Products, Chicken By-Product Meal, Beef By-Product Meal, and so forth.

'Meat Meal', 'Meat and Bone Meal', or 'Animal Digest'. These three ingredients are similar to by-products. AAFCO defines Meat and Bone Meal as "the rendered product from mammal tissues, including bone, exclusive of any added blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents, except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably to good processing practices." Again, a catch all ingredient name for the left-over parts of animals used for human food. No consistency to what is contained in these ingredients (all three of these pet food ingredient definitions are similar) - no way of knowing what is actually in your pet's food. Avoid dog foods, cat foods, and dog and cat treats that contain 'meat meal', 'meat and bone meal', or 'animal digest'.

'Animal Fat'. In 2002 the FDA tested many different brands of dog food (cat food was not tested) for the presence of the drug pentobarbital. Many brands of dog food tested positive to contain the drug. Pentobarbital is the drug used to euthanize dogs, cats, cattle, and horses.

How can the drug that is used to euthanize animals be found in pet food? The answer - euthanized animals are rendered (cooked) and the end ingredients are placed in pet food. It has long been rumored that euthanized dogs and cats (from animal shelters and veterinarian offices) is the major source of the pentobarbital in pet food. However no one has been able to prove or disprove this rumor to date. The FDA/CVM (Center for Veterinary Management) developed testing methods on two separate occasions to determine the species source of the drug. No results have ever been determined. The pet food manufacturers adamantly deny they use rendered dogs or cats - but NO clinical evidence has ever been released to confirm the pentobarbital is from euthanized cattle and horses in pet food as they claim.

However, the one thing the FDA/CVM has determined through their testing is the pet food ingredient 'animal fat' is the most common ingredient to contain pentobarbital. In other words, if you are feeding a dog food or cat food (or treats) with the ingredient 'animal fat' in the ingredient listing - you are (more than likely) feeding your pet euthanized animals. Not every batch of pet food tested that contained the ingredient 'animal fat' has proved to contain pentobarbital - but why would any pet owner want to take the chance? Avoid dog foods, cat foods, and dog and cat treats that contain the ingredient 'animal fat'.

'BHA', 'BHT', 'TBHQ', and 'Ethoxyquin'. These pet food ingredients are chemical preservatives and you might have to look through the entire ingredient list to find them. It is worth the look because there is plenty of clinical evidence to associate all four of these chemical preservatives with cancer and tumors (simply do a Google search on any one of these chemicals). All four of these chemical preservatives are rarely used to preserve human food and if so, are used in quantities far less than what is allowed in pet food. Avoid any dog food, cat food, or dog and cat treat that contains 'BHA', 'BHT', 'TBHQ', and 'Ethoxyquin' on the label.

'Corn', 'Wheat', 'Soy'. While there is no scientific evidence that proves these ingredients are dangerous to pets - they are potentially dangerous ingredients associated with recalls in the past (1995, 1999, and 2005). These grains are highly prone to a deadly mold (aflatoxin). It is suggested (by AAFCO) that all pet food manufacturers test grains for the mold, but as recalls of the past have proven - that doesn't always happen. I do not think these ingredients are as risky as others mentioned above, but they are ingredients I avoid for my own pets.

There is more to selecting a true healthy pet food for your dog or cat than avoiding the above mentioned ingredients. This is just a start - based on pet food history, AAFCO ingredient definitions, science and opinion of many pet food experts including myself. There are many quality pet foods available that do NOT use the above ingredients and that add health promoting ingredients to their foods and treats. Continue to learn as much as you can about what you are feeding your pet and ALWAYS read the labels!

Susan Thixton has worked in the pet industry for over 20 years helping thousands of pet owners to enjoy their pets. She's produced an internationally distributed dog training video, authored the tell all book Truth About Pet Food, and recently has begun publication of a one-of-a-kind pet owning consumer report Petsumer Report. For more information please visit http://www.TruthAboutPetFood.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Susan_Thixton

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Pets For Kids

By Lesley Munnings

Here are 10 Essential Reality Checks for YOU to consider when 'others' are considering the addition of a new pet to your family or household.

So you want a pet or at least your kids want a pet, well there is nothing unnatural about that, the whole idea will sound great...but wait a minute, stop and think.... there are some great positives about this idea....there are also some essential reality checks that need thinking about....a quick read through my checklists below will help you make a more realistic decision.

Remember the old saying "A pet is not just for Christmas". Someone will have to clear the 'pooh' up at the end of it .... all.

Essential Reality Check No. 1 -

The Type of Pet

The type of pets for kids you can take into your household will depend on a whole host of things such as follows:

The ages of your kids - a two year old child will probably not be able to handle a pet gently and certainly won't be able to care for the pet.....

How much will the pet costs be - not just to buy - but to care for on a daily basis?

What size of pet does your child want? - What space will be needed? A hamster does not take up much space but guinea pigs, ferrets and rats need much larger cages.

How much time do your kids and you as a family have to give to the pet?

Will your family be safe with the pet? Will the pet be safe with your family?

If you have a larger pet such as a dog, cat, or goat what effects will it have on your family, friends and neighbours?

How will your pet be cared for during your holidays.

Will your family be able to cope with the eventual death of a pet?

Some pets will sleep most of the day and be awake at night. Hamsters can be very noisy at night!

If your child wants a dog you will need to look into the breed, size and exercise needs of the dog.

Do you already have another pet, what effect will it have on that pet. For instance will your dog be ok with a cat or rabbit or bird?

Essential Reality Check No. 2 -

Ages of your Kids

You will need to decide on a pet that is suitable for the age of your kids.

For instance in most cases it would not be wise to buy a hamster for a two year old child who is still adapting to the world around them and may not know or be able to handle the hamster gently.

Do you want to give your kids some responsibility in caring for an animal. Some kids are very responsible and will be able to manage this. Other kids, well the sight of a baby animal is just too appealing, after all who can resist a cute puppy or kitten or baby hamster?

At first you may need to help your kids, as caring for a pet is a very responsible job. As a parent or carer you will always need to oversee a pet's care.

As the parent or carer you will need to decide if your child is old enough to handle and care for a pet. How often have parents heard the cry "oh but we promise we'll take it for walks everyday"

Or "we'll clean it out mum, we promise". How will you feel in a years time when you find yourself caring for the pets because the kids are busy with friends or away on a school trip or inundated with homework or just plain bored with the poor thing.

Essential Reality Check No. 3 -

True Costs of Pets for Kids

Some pets are very cheap to buy for instance hamsters, guinea pigs, goldfish. gerbils, fancy rats, fancy mice and rabbits and even ferrets.

You will still need to consider:

The cage set up (this can be very expensive when looking at the cage sizes that most pets need) in fact they need the largest cage you can manage

Food costs per week

Bedding

Vets bills if your pets become ill.

e.g. Ferrets need a yearly injection against canine distemper.

Holiday care - you will need to pay for this of course if you cannot rely on friends and family.

Bigger pets for kids such as goats, and dogs and pedigree cats are far more expensive to buy initially, some costing hundreds of pounds.

You will need to consider:

Bedding and a cage (if buying one for your dog or cat)

Leads and collars for dogs.

Food bills

Vets bills (dogs should have yearly check ups with a vets)

Toys

Holiday care (kennels can be very expensive)

Flea treatment

Ongoing veterinary costs if your pets becomes chronically ill.

Essential Reality Check No. 4 -

The Space Required

Even small pets for kids such as guinea pigs, fancy rats and ferrets need a lot of cage space for a happy life. They will need the biggest cages you can find space for. These pets also need space to exercise out of the cage.

Cats take up very little space, as do small breeds of dogs.

Dogs will need a decent sized garden as well as walks to keep them well exercised.

Essential Reality Check No. 5 -

Time for your Pets

Do you and the family have time for a pet.

For smaller pets you will need to have them out of the cage and being handled daily for at least 2 hours a day.

Do you have time to clean out your pet at least once or twice a week, or even daily?

Some pets will certainly need the toilet corner of their cage cleaned more often to avoid a foul smelling cage and pet.

Water bottles and food bowls will need cleaning and refilling every day.

Will you be able to walk your dog at least once a day? - dependent on the breed some need more!

Are you willing to look after your pets for kids for the many years some can live?

(From 18 months to 2 years for a mouse up to 15 years for a dog)

If you are out at work all day and the kids are at school all day your pets will need and will demand attention when you return home

Essential Reality Check No. 6 -

Your Pet and Family Safety

You will always need to ensure your kids safety when they are spending time with any pets.

Even little pets can bite and leave a wound.

Dogs should not be left unattended with your kids as they are unpredictable. Even a faithful dog will bite and even attack a child if they are in pain or afraid. It happens rarely - but it does happen.

You will also need to ensure your pets safety:Is your child able to handle a pet safely without hurting it.

Is your pet safe with any other pets in the home? - if you have young children and a dog .... you will need to make sure the dog cannot escape because a door is accidentally left open.

If you have a dog you need to ensure visitors safety as you can be sued if your dog bites someone on your property (or even off your property)

Make sure that when pets for kids are having free time out of cages that:

Other pets cannot hurt them

They cannot chew electrical leads

They cannot fall into toilets or baths of water.

They cannot escape through gaps in walls or floors

They cannot get outside without supervision

Essential Reality Check No. 7 -

Effects on Family and Neighbours

The whole family needs to be in agreement if you are getting pets. Pets can be noisy and messy having an effect on family living.

What effect will a pet such as a dog have on Granny who suffers with an allergy - will that mean she cannot come to visit anymore?

If you get a dog will it bark and howl when you leave them for any length of time and will this annoy your neighbours.

Will the dog bark when your neighbours are in their own garden.

How will your neighbours take to having your pet cat mess in their garden?

You will need to keep your yard free of dog mess to ensure it does not smell -particularly in summer months.

Essential Reality Check No. 8 -

Holidays and Care for Pets for kids

If you have pets for kids what will happen to them during your holiday times.

Do you have family or friends who can care for your pets while you are away.

If not you will have to pay for your pets care.

This will be expensive for dogs, cats and larger animals.

Even for little pets, holiday care can be expensive.

Essential Reality Check No. 9 -

Loss of a Pet and Grief

Some children are really sensitive and will be distraught when their beloved pet eventually passes away, or is lost in some way.

This is especially distressing if the pet has died as a result of an accident or illness.

How will you manage this?

The kids will need to grieve, grieving is a healthy part of a loss reaction. We can suffer losses every day in a small way such as not getting something we want, this causes a loss reaction and part of the healing for this is grief. If your child or other family member struggles with the grieving then look at the following and see if it applies. The grieving process has seven stepping stones through which people move. Your family member may not go through them in order or spend long on any one.

The stepping stones are:

Shock, Denial, Guilt, Anger, Depression Bargaining, Acceptance

Your child may want another pet this is called bargaining and is one of the stepping stones through the grief process.

If your child cannot have another pet, break down the hidden losses that the death of their pet has caused.

Could there be a loss of your child's self worth or self esteem.

Have they lost their only companion.

Has your child lost the only one who listened to them.

By chatting try to find out how your child is feeling and help them to work out their losses and then work through to acceptance by doing some healthy bargaining.

Would your child be able to regain their sense of worth or self esteem another way? Perhaps helping out with a friends pet for instance.

For some children it may be helpful to have a burial service, so they can say goodbye properly.

(My son kept some hair from his beloved dog)

Our kids have managed the deaths of their pets really well and have gone on to have other pets, for other kids though it has more of an effect so you will need to decide when or if to replace your child's pet.

Essential Reality Check No. 10 -

Pets for Kids are GREAT!

For the most part pets for kids are good fun. They are often good company for your kids especially if the kids are lonely.

Our autistic daughter has changed a lot since we got her guinea pigs to look after. She has gained some imaginative play, we think this is because she talks to her guinea pigs.

We do have to oversee her with them though.

Kids can learn a lot from caring for pets for kids and by having pets even when they are lost naturally.

Dogs can encourage the family out to get exercise as they walk the dog.

All our kids love their pets.

Lesley Munnings is mum of four with numerous pets. She and her husband are authors of parenting-our-kids.com For more information about pets visit best pets for kids

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lesley_Munnings

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Pet Preparation Prior to Disaster Striking

By Audrey Frederick

June is quickly approaching and for most coastal regions the thought of a hurricane begins to creep into our minds.

We become concerned about the safety of our homes, our pets and ourselves.

However, hurricanes are not the only disasters that can confront our well being and that of our pets. Floods, wildfires, tornadoes, riots and terrorists attacks add to the list of things that can happen.

The important thing is to have a plan. Hurricane Katrina was a disaster that displaced not only thousands of people but displaced many animals and unfortunately many died along with their owners. It is said that approximately 44 percent of Hurricane Katrina's victims were pet owners that would not leave their pets.

Until Katrina hit, our country was not too pet friendly in the light of disasters. Most, if not all, did not allow pets of any kind to be brought to a designated shelter.

Currently many states are now providing shelters for owners and their pets providing they follow certain restrictions. Red Cross shelters however, will not allow pets. It is not their rule, but that of the local health departments. A Red Cross shelter is for the benefit of those who do not have pets, who are afraid of pets or who have allergies to pets.

It is up to "you" the pet owner to check your local facilities and see what shelters will allow pets and what size and kind of pet is allowed.

Planning ahead for yourself and your pet should be at the top of your list of things to do. The problem with advance preparing is that many of us go into the "denial mode." We tell ourselves that whatever the disaster is "it is not going to involve us." Then it hits and we are not even prepared for ourselves let alone our pets.

So what should a pet owner do? In the following paragraphs I am going to give you some tips on how to keep your cat or dog as safe as humanly possible. The important thing is to remember you need to prepare before a disaster strikes.

A disaster kit should be large enough to contain all the things you normally need for your pet for at least a 7-day period. It should be waterproof (a plastic container with a tight fitting lid) and labeled "disaster supplies cat or dog."

Food: Pack the brand your pet is used to eating, both canned and dry. Smaller cans are better, as pets in a disrupted setting tend to eat less.

Take along a can opener (even if the cans have lift tabs, some times they do not work.)

Bowls for food and a plastic lid cover for uneaten canned food. Keep uneaten opened cans in a cooler. A spoon or two might be helpful to dish out the canned food.

Water: Enough water for at least a week. Do not keep water in a disaster kit for more than 3 months at a time and store it in a cool dark place.

A water bowl along with a small bottle of bleach, to use if necessary to purify undrinkable water.

Sanitation Supplies: Kitty litter and a litter box for the cat. Take enough litter to use for at least a week along with small plastic bags to dispose of the litter when cleaning out the box.

For your dog take a "pooper scooper" and plastic bags to dispose of the waste.

Cleaning supplies: Paper towels for accidents and to use for cleaning litter box, food dishes, crate or carrier.

Dish soap and some disinfectant for cleaning crates, carriers and assorted possible messes.

Pictures: Have recent photos of your pet, take several or make copies in case you need to do posters if the pet gets lost.

Have a picture of you with your pet, great for identification should the pet get lost and someone finds it. This is very important.

Veterinary Information: You will need the recent records of your pet's shots and vaccinations.

You need to take a supply of any medication your pet is currently taking.

Write you Vet's name, address, and phone number on a piece of paper. Include also a note giving permission for another person besides you to get emergency treatment for your pet if you are not available.

Also have your name, all available telephone numbers that can reach you, address and any other info, so if you and your pet get separated you can be found.

Put all this information in a zip lock plastic bag.

Collars, tags and ID: Get your cat used to wearing a break away collar with an ID tag on it.

Have your dog wearing one at all times.

Get your pet a microchip and sign up with the national registry.

Have several ID tags in case one gets lost.

Use a harness on your cat to keep it on a leash, do not depend on the collar. More cats have been lost with collars on as they can get out of them. Have your cat practice wearing a harness at home a few hours at a time,

Have several leashes (one may get lost) and keep your pet on a leash if it is not in a crate or carrier.

Always know where your pet is at all times.

Miscellaneous articles: Toys, grooming supplies, dry shampoo, flea protection, extra towels, and treats.

Crate or carrier: Make certain the crate or carrier is big enough for the pet to move around comfortably and has room for food dishes and water if necessary.

Crates (for dogs) take up a great deal of room and the ideal product would be a collapsible wire crate with a sturdy lock.

Possible containment for a small or mid sized dog could be a collapsible exercise pen, just make certain the dog cannot dig out or crawl under it. Fasten it down with a stake driven into the ground and fastened to the pen.

First aid kit: Put together a small first aid kit that contains bandages, gauze, antiseptic wipes, some medicated cream recommended by your vet, some tweezers and scissors and a cold/hot pack.

Keep in a watertight container.

These are just a few suggestions to guide you in preparing for a disaster. The most important thing is to be prepared and ready to move when the time arrives.

If you are in doubt as to whether or not you should take your pet ask yourself this question; "would I leave a young child here to cope?" If the answer is no, than take your pet.

What can you do for your pet if you cannot take it

with you? This is in the case of a hurricane or flood. In case of a fire or a tornado warning do not leave your pet.

If you are facing a hurricane, do not leave your pet outside. A bathroom, a closet or a room without too many windows is a good place to start. If you have a basement, keep your pet there.

Here is where a "self feeder" for dry food comes in handy. Fill it with as much dry food as it will hold. If you are leaving several pets get several feeders. If the self-feeders are not possible, leave dry food in containers the dogs or cats can get to. Leave plenty of water in containers that cannot be knocked over.

Leave several articles of clothing that you have recently worn with the pet, your scent will provide some comfort.

Expect a mess when you come home.

Put ID tags on the pet with all necessary information.

Leave your vet's name and information along with a note giving permission for someone other than you to get treatment for the pet if necessary. Put this information in a plastic bag and nail it to a wall or door so it is visible.

If there is danger of a flood you need to provide places of higher elevation for the pet to get to.

In case of a flood, the cellar is definitely not the place to keep your pet. If you have an idea of the possible flood level, construct some type of area for the pet to climb onto to stay dry. Pile up furniture and create a level space that the pet can reach. Make certain there is food and water available for your pet to eat at floor level and on the higher space.

If you are leaving your dog outside, do not tie or chain it up. Dogs can be left in garages, barns, sheds or even a flat roof (provide a large board in case you are in a sunny area, as a roof can get very hot and burn a pet's pads.)

Wherever you leave your dog, be certain that it can reach a higher level and that there is food and water there for your pet to eat and drink.

Do not leave treats, vitamins or supplements out for your pet, provide only dry food and water.

If your pet is a cat the same instructions apply. Make certain that the cat has a high place to retreat to in case of high water and that you have placed food and water in that location.

Refrigerators, tall entertainment centers or a shelf in a closet can provide safety for your cat. Regarding cats leave a litter box in the location you have chosen.

Making arrangements with a neighbor to keep an eye on your pet if you are not around when the disaster is due to happen is a good idea. Give your neighbor the necessary veterinarian information and a note allowing permission for treatment if you are not available.

Above all preplan and be ready.

If you are going on vacation be certain to check with the kennel or with the person who is caring for your animals to see if they have a disaster plan. This is where preplanning on your part is important. Have your disaster kit ready for them to use if necessary.

Leaving a pet is a heart-wrenching thing to do and please do not do it unless it is absolutely the only thing you can do. Just writing that sentence has reduced me to tears, as I know I could not leave my pets under any circumstances.

However, if it is necessary, please do your best to provide for the safety and well being of your pet.

Disasters do happen and you can be prepared.

Owning a pet is a big responsibility and with that responsibility comes the job of seeing that your pet is safe and well taken care of. A pet is not a thow-away item, it is a breathing living being and deserves the best care you can give it. For more information on taking care of your pet, please visit my website http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Audrey_Frederick

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Rabbits as Pet - A Beginner's Guide

After dogs and cats, pet rabbits are becoming the most popular household pets. However, rabbits are not suitable pets for everyone. This article is a beginner's guide to those who are thinking of getting rabbits as pets.



Rabbits are lovely, gentle, friendly and cute. They are relatively easier to care for and demand very little in terms of care and housing. Pet rabbits should preferably be kept indoors as they are very susceptible to heat stroke and house rabbits tend to live healthier and longer lives.



A rabbit can live between 6 to 13 years of age and there are some reports of rabbits living up to 15 years old. This should be taken into consideration if you are thinking of keeping rabbits as pet. Are you prepared to care and provide for the rabbit during its life span?



A pet rabbit may be kept in a rabbit hutch or a rabbit cage. Rabbit cage with raised wire mesh and a plastic tray at the bottom is the easiest to maintain and clean. A rabbit cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit and should be tall enough to enable the rabbit to stand up straight. Rabbit housing should be cleaned daily.



Pet rabbits may be litter box-trained. However, no matter how well trained is your rabbit, occasionally, he may still drop some poops outside the litter box and you have to be prepared to pick them if you like to get a rabbit as pet. Rabbit's droppings should be inspected daily for any irregularity in shape and size as this can be the first sign that the rabbit is sick.



A pet rabbit's diet can be made of commercially produced rabbit pellets, hay, greens and fruits. The rabbit's diet should be adjusted as they get older. Younger rabbits less than 7 months old should be fed with pellets and alfalfa hay. Older rabbits should be fed less with pellets and the hay should be substituted with timothy hay instead. Hay is the most important diet for rabbit. Adequate fresh water is a must.



Pet rabbits are quite particular about their own cleanliness and spent quite considerable time grooming themselves. They shed their hair every 3 months and you should be prepared for more vacuuming in the house. Family with members who are allergic to rabbit's fur may not be suitable to keep rabbits as pet.



Rabbits reproduce few times a year and therefore should be neutered or spayed. Neutering or spaying your rabbit also helps prevent development of cancer in female rabbits and eliminate aggressive behaviour in male rabbits. It is easier to house train neutered and spayed rabbits.



Rabbits do not need frequent trip to the vet. Common illness in rabbits include intestinal blockage, diarrhoea, molar spurs and viral infection. When your pet rabbits get sick, they should be immediately brought to a savvy vet to be treated.



Pet rabbits like to chew on furniture and electrical cords. Therefore, bunny proofing the house is important for the rabbit's safety and to prevent damages. Electrical cords may be wrapped in plastic tubing. Adult rabbits tend to be more disciplined.



Pet rabbits love toys even though they may get bored easily with the toys. It is recommended to rotate the toys available. Rabbit's toys need not necessarily be expensive toys. Hand-made toys will provide the rabbits with just as much fun.



Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk. This may suits working adults most as your pet rabbits will be active when you are at home. You also need not feel guilty about leaving your pet rabbits in their cage while you are working as they will be napping anyway.

Most people keep rabbits as pet because they are quiet and easy to care for. Do not leave children to care for the rabbits by themselves as they may not be responsible to handle the rabbits. It is important to understand that adults should still be the primary care taker.

Visit My Pet Rabbits at http://www.mypetrabbits.com for more articles about getting Rabbits as Pets

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